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Tasting the Northern Terroir: Why Xinomavro is the Ultimate Grape of the Gods


Grapes hanging on the vine

Xinomavro Grapes

Xinomavro, translating to “sour black”, is a highly accomplished black grape, capable of producing juicy, tannin-filled reds, smooth and creamy whites, and crisp, appetizing sparkling rosés. If you are familiar with Italy’s Nebbiolo or Burgundy’s Pinot Noir, the characteristics of Greece’s prized Xinomavro grape follow a very similar vein.

The high altitude and diurnal temperature variations of Northern Greece create the perfect, cool climate for the Xinomavro grape to thrive. The grapes are typically harvested at full maturity in October once their vibrant acidity and full-bodied tannins have finished developing.

Whether enjoyed young or aged, Xinomavro wines are a celebration of the Greek terroir, possessing an unparalleled ability to intrigue and enchant wine enthusiasts with their fascinating flavor profiles and unique characteristics.

View of the Church St. Paul and Thessaloniki city at sunset, Greece

Thessaloniki

The Xinomavro grape is Thessaloniki’s most prevalent legacy. With a rich history as a Roman capital and a Byzantine center, this ancient city was once home to great Macedonian kings and, by extension, was frequented by Greek gods, primarily for the enjoyment of its great vineyards producing “sour and astringent wine”, a description which closely matches the wine of today’s Xinomavro variety.

Despite once being the most multicultural city in Europe, today’s Thessaloniki is shaped by the Great Fire of 1917 which wiped out that rich past; its elegant, French-style boulevards were introduced later when the city was rebuilt. Modern day vineyards can now be found in the more rural locations of Macedonia.

Greece agricultural landscape in summer, near Naousa, Imathia, Makedonia Thraki.
Kilkis skyline from St. George Hill at evening time and sunset

Goumenissa, Kilkis

In the stunning, gently rolling hills just north of cosmopolitan Thessaloniki, the Goumenissa region in Kilkis has been producing wine for over two hundred years across almost four hundred hectares of planted vineyards.

Recently, a fascinating terroir for Xinomavro has emerged, with heavier soils and a cool, mountainous terrain. However, the Xinomavro vines in Goumenissa do tend to have a lower yield compared to other areas of Northern Greece.

A farmer trimming grapevine leaves

Siatista

In the Kozani region of Western Macedonia, the town of Siatista has been increasingly investing in growing Xinomavro grapes, having formerly focused on growing and producing sweeter wines. Intriguingly, the combination of the Xinomavro grapes with the delicately scented local variety, Moschomavro, can create wines with a thrilling contrast of tannin-rich, leathery flavors and fruity, floral notes.

Glass of Aphrodise with grapes